Bichitrapuri Sarees: Exquisite Double Ikat Weaving from Odisha

Bichitrapuri Saree

Introduction to Bichitrapuri Sarees

Bichitrapuri sarees, also known as pasapali sarees, are a captivating form of double ikat weaving originating from the Bargarh district of Odisha, India. These sarees derive their name from the Odia term “bichitra,” meaning “wondrous.” With their exquisite checkered patterns and vibrant color combinations, Bichitrapuri sarees have become synonymous with the rich cultural heritage of Odisha.

The Art of Double Ikat Weaving

Bichitrapuri sarees are characterized by their intricate double ikat weaving technique. Both the weft and warp threads are resist-dyed before weaving, resulting in clear chessboard-like checks on the fabric. The process of tying and dyeing the threads is a labor-intensive and time-consuming task that requires the expertise of skilled karigars, including designers, tiers, dyers, and weavers.

The resist-dyeing process involves tying sections of the threads with thread or other materials to prevent dye penetration. This intricate process ensures that the desired patterns and designs appear on the fabric when the threads are woven together. The double ikat technique, where both the warp and weft threads are dyed, adds complexity to the process and creates mesmerizing geometric patterns on the saree.

Traditional Motifs and Ornate Pallus

Bichitrapuri sarees feature ornate pallus adorned with rows of traditional motifs. These motifs hold deep cultural significance and add to the overall allure of the saree. Intricate designs of rudraksha beads, fish, conch shells, tortoises, swans, ducks, flowers, elephants, deers, and yalis are meticulously woven into the fabric, separated by thin stripes. The motifs are woven with precision, showcasing the skill and artistry of the weavers.

Historical Significance and Cultural Heritage

Although the precise origins of Bichitrapuri sarees remain a mystery, their popularity surged during the nineteenth century. Traditionally, these sarees were used to drape idols of deities at the Jagannath Temple in Odisha. This association with religious rituals and ceremonies elevated the saree’s cultural significance. Over time, Bichitrapuri sarees became an integral part of Odia attire, typically worn on special occasions, festivals, and celebrations.

Production Process of Bichitrapuri Sarees

The production of Bichitrapuri sarees involves a meticulous process that combines traditional dyeing techniques and weaving on a fly shuttle pit loom. The Odisha ikat, or bandhakala, process is used to dye the warp and weft threads before weaving. The dyed threads are tied according to the desired design, dried, and then woven on the loom. The extra warp patterning on the main body and extra weft patterning on the pallu create the distinctive aesthetic of Bichitrapuri sarees.

Skilled artisans meticulously weave the threads on the loom, ensuring that the design appears in the completed textile. The colors of the saree weaves are predetermined, creating a harmonious and vibrant palette. The labor-intensive process requires patience, precision, and attention to detail, resulting in sarees of exceptional beauty and quality.

Revival and Contemporary Significance

After India gained independence, there was a conscious effort to revive and preserve the traditional weaving techniques of Odisha, including the art of Bichitrapuri sarees. Today, these sarees are primarily crafted by the Meher community of weavers from western Odisha. These artisans have played a crucial role in ensuring the survival and revival of this heritage art form.

Bichitrapuri sarees have garnered attention not only for their cultural significance but also for their timeless appeal and versatility. They have gained popularity among saree enthusiasts, fashion designers, and collectors around the world. The unique combination of intricate patterns, vibrant colors, and the traditional border positioned in the middle makes Bichitrapuri sarees truly distinctive.

The Uniqueness of Bichitrapuri Sarees

What sets Bichitrapuri sarees apart is the traditional border positioned in the middle, adding a touch of elegance and uniqueness to the overall appearance. Thanks to the intricate double ikat technique, the check designs on the main body of Bichitrapuri sarees come alive with even more vibrancy, featuring a captivating combination of white, red, and black squares. Each Bichitrapuri saree is a work of art, showcasing the skill and craftsmanship of the talented artisans who create them.


Bichitrapuri sarees represent the cultural heritage and artistic brilliance of Odisha. Their intricate double ikat weaving technique, vibrant colors, and traditional motifs make them truly captivating. The labor-intensive production process ensures that each saree is a masterpiece. Whether draped for special occasions or cherished as heirlooms, Bichitrapuri sarees continue to captivate individuals worldwide with their beauty and timeless appeal. Explore the world of Bichitrapuri sarees and embrace the artistry and cultural heritage they embody.

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