From Loom to Lifestyles: The Making of Tanchoi Silk Banarasi Sarees

Tanchoi Silk Banarasi Saree

Tanchoi silk Banarasi sarees stand as a testament to the rich heritage of Indian textiles and the cultural exchange that has shaped the country’s weaving traditions. These stunning sarees, celebrated for their intricate self-designs, hold a special place in the hearts of millions of Indian women and continue to mesmerize the world with their elegance and artistry.

The Chinese Connection – Roots of Tanchoi Weaving

The Tanchoi weaving technique can be traced back to ancient China, where silk weaving had reached unparalleled heights of craftsmanship. Chinese silk textiles found their way to the Indian subcontinent through the bustling trade routes that connected the two great civilizations. The Parsis, a Zoroastrian community living on the Indian west coast, played a significant role in the Indio-Chinese trade during the 18th century.

The vibrant exchange of goods between China and India, facilitated by the Silk Route, brought Chinese silks and brocades to the shores of India. These exquisite fabrics soon captured the imagination of the elite, who considered them symbols of status and refinement. Parsi women, in particular, showed great admiration for the Chinese textiles and began incorporating them into their wardrobes, making them a distinct part of their lifestyle.

The Journey to India – The Tale of Three Weavers

In the mid-19th century, a pivotal event occurred that would shape the future of Tanchoi weaving in India. Three talented weavers from a traditional weaving family in Surat embarked on an extraordinary journey to China, seeking to learn the secrets of Chinese silk weaving. Under the patronage of Sir Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy, a prominent Parsi merchant, the three brothers immersed themselves in the artistry of the Chinese masters.

During their time in China, they were apprenticed to a skilled silk weaver named Chhoi, who imparted his knowledge of the craft to the eager students. Upon their return to India, the brothers adopted the name of their revered teacher, and ‘Tanchoi’ was born. The name ‘Tanchoi’ combines ‘Tan,’ meaning three in Gujarati, and ‘choi,’ a tribute to their Chinese mentor.

The Rise and Fall of Tanchoi Weaving

As the three weavers settled back in Surat, they began to weave silk using the Tanchoi technique they had learned in China. These early Tanchoi sarees had a distinct character, using only two colors – the warp forming the background, and the weft creating intricate patterns on the right side of the fabric. Interestingly, the reverse side displayed the exact opposite, with the weft color becoming the background and the warp revealing the patterns.

During the 19th century, Tanchoi sarees grew in popularity among the Parsi community and became an essential part of the Parsi bride’s trousseau. These sarees featured large pallus adorned with paisley motifs at both ends and diamond patterns on the body of the drape. Zari work was also skillfully incorporated to highlight certain parts of the motifs, adding an opulent touch to the sarees.

However, as the 20th century approached, Tanchoi weaving faced challenges. The influence of European fashion and the introduction of power looms brought significant changes to the textile industry. Parsi lifestyles shifted towards lighter fabrics and contemporary designs, and the traditional art of Tanchoi began to lose its charm.

Banaras: The Revival of Tanchoi Weaving

While Tanchoi weaving faced decline on the west coast, the craft found new life in the historic city of Banaras (Varanasi). The skilled weavers of Banaras, known for their exceptional craftsmanship, saw an opportunity to revive Tanchoi weaving and reimagine its designs. They incorporated intricate Banarasi patterns and opulent zari work into the Tanchoi technique, elevating the sarees to new heights of artistry and allure.

The motifs of the revived Tanchoi sarees drew inspiration from Kashmir’s famed Jamawars, featuring delicate paisleys and ornate flora and fauna patterns. The fusion of Chinese-originated Tanchoi with the quintessential Banarasi artistry gave rise to a unique and captivating textile.

Tanchoi Silk Banarasi Sarees: A Style Icon

Today, Tanchoi silk Banarasi sarees have become iconic representatives of India’s rich weaving traditions. These timeless sarees are treasured by women for special occasions, weddings, and cultural celebrations. The meticulous craftsmanship, intricate patterns, and luxurious zari work make Tanchoi sarees a symbol of elegance and opulence.

The revival of Tanchoi weaving in Banaras not only preserved a cherished tradition but also provided an avenue for weavers to showcase their skills to a global audience. The fusion of Chinese and Indian influences in Tanchoi sarees is a testament to the interconnection of cultures through trade and artistic exchange.


From its ancient origins in China to its glorious revival in Banaras, the journey of Tanchoi silk Banarasi sarees is a captivating tale of artistry, culture, and resilience. This exquisite weaving technique, which produces self-designs and intricate patterns, has become a cultural gem cherished by generations. As these sarees continue to grace the wardrobes of Indian women and captivate fashion enthusiasts worldwide, the legacy of Tanchoi weaving remains woven into the fabric of Indian heritage.

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