Art Silk is a term commonly used to refer to fabrics that imitate the appearance and texture of pure silk, but are made using synthetic or artificial fibers. These fibers provide the fabric with added strength and durability, while also reducing its cost. The extent of cost savings can vary depending on the specific design.
The world of yarns and threads has expanded so much that it’s no longer possible to classify them all under a single category. Nowadays, various types of yarns are often combined to produce new textures and aesthetics while maintaining affordability.
Brocade is a type of fabric that incorporates a non-structural weft thread to create decorative motifs in addition to the standard weft that holds the warp threads in place. This technique typically involves the use of metallic or zari threads to weave the motifs, and the term “brocade” is usually reserved for this specific type of weave.
The Cutwork technique is similar to Brocade, as it involves the use of an additional non-structural weft thread to weave decorative motifs alongside the standard weft that holds the warp threads in place. However, in Cutwork, the floating extra-weft thread is cut to bring out the distinct design pattern. Cutwork sarees typically use minimal or no zari in their motifs, distinguishing them from Brocade sarees.
Pochampally, Ikat, and Patola are weaving techniques that combine elements of both printing and weaving. The design motifs are first printed or resist-dyed onto the warp and/or weft threads before being woven into a fabric or saree. What sets these sarees apart is that the dye is applied to the threads themselves, rather than the surface of the woven cloth. While Pochampally and Patola both use the Ikat technique, the main difference lies in their geographical origins and design styles.
Kadhua is a handloom weaving technique that creates discontinuous brocade, with each motif being individually woven. Unlike continuous brocade where the extra weft creates motifs across the fabric’s width and then gets cut, Kadhua does not have any cuts as there are no floats. This allows for sharper motifs and more creative possibilities in color combinations. Additionally, the absence of cuts at the back makes the fabric relatively more comfortable. Depending on the design and the number of colors used, it can take anywhere from 80 to over 500 man hours to weave a Kadhua brocade.
Kadiyal, also known as Korvai, is a handloom technique used to create a stark contrast between the borders and the main body fabric in woven textiles. This technique involves two or three master weavers and as many shuttles to prevent the body weft from running over to the border. As a result, the main body and the borders are distinctly separated, creating a striking visual effect.
Katan fabric is made using Mulberry Silk yarns for both the warp and weft. Mulberry Silk is one of the finest and most commonly used types of silk yarns for weaving sarees, alongside Eri, Muga, and Tassar. Among these types, Mulberry Silk is known for its high quality and lustrous appearance. However, the texture of the final product may vary based on the thickness of the yarns and the method used to twist them.
Kora Silk, also known as Organza Silk, is a type of silk fabric that uses Resham, which is pure un-degummed silk, for both the warp and the weft. Kora Silk Sarees are known for their exclusivity, lightweight, and delicate texture. The yarns used in Kora Silk are typically fine, resulting in a sheer and translucent look for the final product.
Patola & Pochampally
Pochampally, Ikat, and Patola all refer to a weaving technique that combines printing and weaving. The design motifs are first printed or resist-dyed onto the warp or weft threads, and then woven into a fabric or saree. This creates an exclusive and surreal look, as the dye is applied to the threads instead of the face of the woven cloth. The main difference between Pochampally and Patola, both using the Ikat technique, is the geographical origin and design language.
Raw Silk Sarees are made using fine Resham (un-degummed silk) warp and Raw Silk weft. Raw Silk refers to yarns that are pure silk in composition but have not been processed or degummed. These yarns can have a coarse texture and may have a matte or silken sheen depending on the level of processing.
Summer Silk is a type of lightweight pure silk fabric that is typically made with un-degummed Resham silk or de-gummed Katan silk in the warp and twisted silk yarn in the weft. This type of fabric is a blend of Katan silk and Georgette, having a slightly grainy texture that distinguishes it from regular Katan silk. Summer Silk sarees are ideal for warmer weather due to their lightweight and breathable nature.
This fabric uses pure Tussar Silk threads in the weft. Tussar Silk typically has a copper hue, unless it is dyed, and it is less lustrous and coarser compared to the more commonly used Mulberry Silk.
A tissue fabric or saree typically incorporates metallic threads, also known as zari, along with pure silk or cotton threads in the warp, weft, or both. This combination creates a striking and surreal sheen in the woven fabric.
Depending on the proportion of zari used and the weave, the tissue effect can range from subtle to exotic.